Know the Oakmoss Absolute

So long as emotions are within us; they are subjective (not objective). It is impossible to photograph this atmosphere or carve it in stone; no painter can capture it on canvas. Emotions live in the present; at times, they emerge from the past and return to the future without warning.

Close your eyes and think of a forest. You will conjure up the damp image of green moss in a shady spot and feel as though you are breathing clean air. And so, by closing your eyes and inhaling through your nose from the glass jar in the photograph, you will experience that same olfactory sensation.

Oakmoss Absolute  is produced in our laboratories from Evernia Prunastri, a certified organic lichen grown at Casalvento. During August, we venture into the deepest parts of the forest and climb the tallest oaks. The harvesting is done by hand. The botanical material must be cleaned and stored in the dark; then begins a process that resembles the work of a Druid priest more than that of a perfumery raw material producer. Large pots, boiling water, and rising vapors—after about a month, the absolute is ready.

In this paragraph explore the products derived from different type of lichens. Firstly, Evernia Prunastri (oakmoss) they are widely used in perfumery. Secondly, Evernia Furfuracea used in the folk medicine for its antibacterial, emollient, and expectorant properties. Thirdly, and most importantly, Usnea Barbata (treemoss) with skin-restoring pharmaceutical property and dietary supplement with slimming activity.

Above all Oak Moss absolute in used in perfumery and impart fougère, chypre, forest, and oriental notes and serve as excellent fixatives. A raw material producer must clearly distinguish between the various production processes that yield six different products from this lichen: concretes, absolutes, co-distilled absolutes, absolute oils, resins, and resinoids. Casalvento produces Oakmoss Absolute.

Recently, the European Community (Regulation 2017/1410) and the IFRA-51 amendment have restricted the use of this absolute due to its content of Atranol and Chloratranol, which are considered allergenic substances in cosmetics. A substance is classified as “allergenic” if, in predisposed individuals, it can trigger allergic reactions affecting the skin (hives), lungs (asthma), digestive system (diarrhea), or eyes and nose (conjunctivitis and runny nose). These two molecules—which are not present in the raw plant material but are formed through the degradation of Atranorin and Chloratranorin during the extraction process—can be removed from the extract via a post-production process.

Once tolerated at levels below 100 parts per million (ppm), they are now banned. Oakmoss Absolute is a skin sensitizer rather than a food allergen; therefore, there are no restrictions on its use in the production of liqueurs and spirits.

Through processes such as Molecular Distillation (MD), Chromatography (Prep LC), and the use of selective solvents (Liquid-Liquid Extraction), it is possible to obtain an Oakmoss Absolute suitable for cosmetic use. However, the “Low Atranol” absolute loses its original beauty due to the co-extraction of other odoriferous molecules during the rectification process.

European Community regulations have led vintage perfume collectors to increasingly seek out refined fragrances produced “pre-2017” that contain this extract. The market value of these bottles has risen significantly, yet in that circle, price is no object. There is also keen interest in whole Oakmoss Absolute within the niche perfume-making community. An increasing number of enthusiasts are seeking authentic raw materials and original ingredients to craft their own signature scents and in doing so, they demand the very best. This absolute is also highly sought after in the spirits and artisanal distilling industries for creating unique, distinctive products; notably, it is not subject to restrictions in the food sector.